Step Plan Generator

Miniature painting checklist generator

Tell me what you are painting — how many models, what they are made of, whether they are built, how you want the bases and how complex the scheme is — and this miniature painting checklist builds itself around them. You get the stages in order, the jobs under each one, the paints and tools to put on the desk, and a time range so you know what you are signing up for.

  • Built from a fixed workflow definition, so the same five answers always give the same plan
  • Tick the steps off as you work, then copy or download the checklist for the desk
  • Nothing you enter is uploaded, stored or put in the URL
What are you painting?

Count the whole unit, not just the one you feel like painting. Between 1 and 200.

Resin adds a dust mask and a proper wash to the plan. Metal adds pinning and superglue.

Still on the sprue means clipping, trimming and the build go into the plan as stages of their own.

A scenic base is a project inside the project — the plan gives it the time it actually takes.

Simple is a wash and a drybrush. Standard adds edge highlights. Detailed adds layered highlights and glazes.

Changing an answer rebuilds the plan and the time ranges straight away. The button is there for keyboard and screen reader users.

Your painting plan

5 models · plastic · fully assembled · simple texture base · standard scheme

2 h 20 min – 4 h 20 minestimated, whole plan

7 stages · 37 checklist steps · 14 paints and materials · 25 tools

Roughly 28 min – 52 min per model at this batch size.

0 of 37 steps ticked

  1. Stage 1

    Build and prep the models

    15 min – 30 min

    Every model built, joints tight, and nothing left on that will block the brush later.

    Paints: None yet — this stage is prep only.

    Tools: Sprue cutters or side cutters, Hobby knife with a fresh blade, Needle files and a sanding stick, Plastic cement, plus superglue for resin and metal

    These models are already built, so this stage is about gaps, bent parts and strengthening weak joints.

  2. Stage 2

    Clean the mould lines and wash the models

    15 min – 30 min

    Smooth surfaces and no release agent left behind, so primer has something to grip.

    Paints: None yet — this stage is prep only.

    Tools: Hobby knife, Needle files and sanding sticks, Old toothbrush, Warm water and a drop of washing-up liquid, Lint-free cloth or kitchen paper

  3. Stage 3

    Prime

    15 min – 25 min

    A thin, even key for the paint to grab, with no detail lost.

    Paints: Primer — rattle can or brush-on

    Tools: Primer, A spray box or cardboard to spray into, Old sprue for test sprays, Ventilated space or outdoors

    Priming is the one stage that really does want good light, dry air and a bit of patience.

  4. Stage 4

    Base coat

    30 min – 50 min

    Every part of the model blocked in with clean, flat colour.

    Paints: Primer, 3–5 base colours, 1–2 washes, 1–2 lighter tones for edges

    Tools: Wet palette or a ceramic tile, A size 1–2 brush for the main areas, Two water pots — one for metallics and washes

  5. Stage 5

    Shade and define the shadows

    15 min – 30 min

    Depth in the recesses and a clear read of the shapes from arm's length.

    Paints: Wash or contrast paint, Base colours for glazing back over panels

    Tools: A dedicated wash brush, Clean water pot, Kitchen paper for wicking up pools

  6. Stage 6

    Highlight

    25 min – 50 min

    Raised areas catching the light, so the model reads as a shape rather than a silhouette.

    Paints: 1–3 lighter tones of the base colours, Glaze medium or matte medium

    Tools: A size 0 or smaller brush for detail, A cheap drybrush if the scheme is simple, A tile or palette for mixing mid-tones

    This is the stage that takes the longest and shows the most. It is also the one worth splitting across sessions.

  7. Stage 7

    Base and finish

    25 min – 45 min

    A finished base, a protected paint job, and models that are actually done.

    Paints: Black for the base rim, Texture paint, A lighter drybrush tone for the texture, Tufts or scatter, Matte varnish

    Tools: Old brush or palette knife for texture, Matte varnish, Tufts, scatter or pigment

Paint and tool checklist

Bench setup before you start

  • A clear, well-lit work surface you can leave set up — or a tray so you can pack it away
  • Good adjustable light, close to daylight where you can get it
  • Two water pots: one for clean water, one for metallics and washes
  • Kitchen paper or a lint-free cloth
  • A wet palette if you have one, otherwise a white tile or a plastic lid
  • A dust mask and gloves if you are working with resin

Paints and materials

  • Primer — rattle can or brush-on
  • Primer
  • 3–5 base colours
  • 1–2 washes
  • 1–2 lighter tones for edges
  • Wash or contrast paint
  • Base colours for glazing back over panels
  • 1–3 lighter tones of the base colours
  • Glaze medium or matte medium
  • Black for the base rim
  • Texture paint
  • A lighter drybrush tone for the texture
  • Tufts or scatter
  • Matte varnish

Tools

  • Sprue cutters or side cutters
  • Hobby knife with a fresh blade
  • Needle files and a sanding stick
  • Plastic cement, plus superglue for resin and metal
  • Hobby knife
  • Needle files and sanding sticks
  • Old toothbrush
  • Warm water and a drop of washing-up liquid
  • Lint-free cloth or kitchen paper
  • Primer
  • A spray box or cardboard to spray into
  • Old sprue for test sprays
  • Ventilated space or outdoors
  • Wet palette or a ceramic tile
  • A size 1–2 brush for the main areas
  • Two water pots — one for metallics and washes
  • A dedicated wash brush
  • Clean water pot
  • Kitchen paper for wicking up pools
  • A size 0 or smaller brush for detail
  • A cheap drybrush if the scheme is simple
  • A tile or palette for mixing mid-tones
  • Old brush or palette knife for texture
  • Matte varnish
  • Tufts, scatter or pigment

Plain-text plan — edit it before you save it

When to use this checklist

Use it once you know which models you are painting and roughly how you want them to look. It turns those answers into an order of work, a paint and tool list, and a time range you can plan an evening around.

The stages and times come from a fixed workflow definition, not from your own paint or primer, so follow the maker’s instructions for anything you actually apply.

How this miniature painting checklist is built

The plan is not written fresh each time and it is not guessed at. It comes from a fixed workflow definition with seven stages, and your five answers decide which jobs, paints, tools and times appear inside them.

  1. The order is fixed. Build and prep, clean the mould lines, prime, base coat, shade, highlight, base and finish. That is the same order the beginner guide on this site uses, because it is the order that stops you redoing work.
  2. Your material changes the jobs. Resin gets a dust mask, a toothbrush scrub for release agent and a warning about bent parts; metal gets pinning and superglue; plastic gets plastic cement and a reminder not to mix the two adhesives up.
  3. Your build state changes the length. Models still on the sprue get clipping, trimming and dry-fitting steps. Fully assembled models skip all of that and start at gap filling and gap checking.
  4. Your scheme sets the paint list and the hours. Simple schemes get a short palette and one highlight pass; detailed schemes get more colours, two-stage highlights and the longest stage times in the plan.
  5. Your basing choice is priced in time, honestly. A scenic base is often as much work as the model standing on it, and the plan says so rather than pretending otherwise.

Everything runs in your browser as plain JavaScript. There is no model, no server call and no randomness, so the same five answers always produce the same plan — and you can read the whole thing above before you trust it.

Why the times are ranges

Nobody can tell you that a Space Marine takes 47 minutes, so this tool does not try. Each stage carries a per-model range and a one-off setup time, and the two are added up for the number of models you entered.

  • Batch work speeds up, detail work does not. Priming, base coating, washing and varnishing twenty models is mostly the same motion repeated, so the per-model time falls as the count rises. Cleaning mould lines and edge highlighting twenty models is still twenty careful jobs, so those barely move.
  • Setup is counted once per stage. Shaking a rattle can, setting up the wet palette and clearing the desk happen once, whether you are painting one model or thirty.
  • Times are rounded to five minutes. A figure like 2 h 25 min is an estimate, not a stopwatch reading, and it is deliberately wide.
  • Your speed is not in the model. A first model takes longer than the tenth. If this is your first box, treat the top of the range as the realistic end.

A worked example

The plan above arrives set to the most common starting point on this site: five plastic models, already assembled, a simple texture base and a standard scheme. Here is what the stages come out as.

Default plan for five assembled plastic models
StageTimeWhat it is really for
Build and prep the models15 min – 30 minEvery model built, joints tight, and nothing left on that will block the brush later.
Clean the mould lines and wash the models15 min – 30 minSmooth surfaces and no release agent left behind, so primer has something to grip.
Prime15 min – 25 minA thin, even key for the paint to grab, with no detail lost.
Base coat30 min – 50 minEvery part of the model blocked in with clean, flat colour.
Shade and define the shadows15 min – 30 minDepth in the recesses and a clear read of the shapes from arm's length.
Highlight25 min – 50 minRaised areas catching the light, so the model reads as a shape rather than a silhouette.
Base and finish25 min – 45 minA finished base, a protected paint job, and models that are actually done.

Notice where the hours go: highlighting is the longest stage and the one that shows the most, and basing is not far behind. If you are short of time, cutting the scheme from standard to simple saves more than cutting the basing ever will.

What this checklist cannot tell you

  • No colours, no brands, no SKUs. The paint and tool lists are categories — "3–5 base colours", "a size 0 brush" — not shopping recommendations. This tool does not price anything or check stock.
  • No colour-scheme design. It plans the work, not the palette. Which colours go together is a taste decision and a different job.
  • No safety assessment. Spray primer, resin dust, superglue accelerator and pigments all need real precautions, ventilation and a bit of common sense that a generated list cannot supply.
  • No sculpt evaluation. A model with a cape over both legs needs sub-assemblies the plan cannot see. Treat the order as the spine and adjust the joints around your models.
  • No promise that the ranges are your ranges. They are built from a fixed workflow definition and general hobby experience — a guide, not a measurement of your brush speed.

Questions about the painting plan

What should be on a miniature painting checklist?

The order matters more than the length. Build and prep the models, clean the mould lines and wash them, prime, block in the base coats, shade the recesses, highlight the raised areas, then base and varnish. Under each of those stages you want the actual jobs written down — trim the gates, thin the paint, wick up pooling, tidy the base rim — plus the paints and tools that stage needs. This generator builds that list from your answers and adds the bench setup you would otherwise forget.

How long does it take to paint a miniature?

It depends far more on the scheme and the batch size than on the model. Blocking in base coats on twenty models is mostly the same motion repeated, so the per-model time drops; edge highlighting twenty models is still twenty careful jobs, so it barely drops at all. Every figure on this page is a range, on purpose — a time range that pretends to be a prediction is worse than no estimate. The plan shows the stages that eat the hours so you can decide what to cut.

Does this work for a whole army rather than a single model?

Yes. Set the model count to the size of the unit or the army and the plan scales the per-model time with a batch factor: priming, base coating, washing and varnishing all get faster per model in a batch, while highlighting and cleaning barely do. The plan does not split the batch into sittings for you, but the stage times are a decent guide to how many evenings it will take.

Are my answers or my plan saved anywhere?

No. The plan is built in your browser from a fixed workflow definition that is written into the page, and your answers stay in the page while you are on it. Nothing is uploaded, stored, put in the URL or attached to an account — there is no account on this site to attach it to. If you want to keep the plan, download or copy it before you close the tab.

Can I change the plan after it is generated?

Yes, in two ways. Change any answer and the plan rebuilds itself straight away, with the time ranges recalculated. Or tick the steps off as you work, which updates the plain-text version — and that text box is editable, so you can rewrite, delete or add lines before you copy or download it. Copying and downloading always use exactly what is in that box.

Is this the same workflow the beginner guide on this site uses?

Yes. It follows the same order as the how-to-paint-miniatures guide — assemble, clean, prime, base coat, shade, highlight, base — and then stretches each step into the jobs, paints and tools for the specific models you described. The guide explains why the order works; this tool turns it into a list you can tick off and take to the desk.

Where to go next

The plan tells you what to do in what order. These pages fill in the how, and the money.