Start With the Base, Not the Handle
A painting handle only helps when the way it holds your model matches how you work. Four checks settle most of the choice: base diameter and shape, based model versus loose subassembly, whether you swap models in batches, and whether you can print your own parts. Price comes last, because a mount that cannot hold the model safely is not a bargain.
Diameter and shape come first
Measure the base at its widest point, then look at the shape. A putty-based holder such as the Redgrass RGG360 V2 is listed by its maker for 10 to 50 mm bases, because putty conforms to a base instead of gripping its rim. Band-style or clamp-style holders press against the base, so a textured or irregular scenic base can still be awkward to seat even when its diameter is inside the stated range. Treat the stated range as a fit specification, not a load rating: a heavy metal model on a 50 mm base behaves nothing like a light plastic figure on the same base.
Based model or unbased subassembly
An assembled model on its final base is simple: the handle grips the base. A torso, arm, or head painted separately needs a sacrificial attachment. Glue or tack the part to a spare base, a plastic tab, or a block of sprue, and hold the tab. Keep the attachment on a surface that will later be covered or hidden, and never pin through finished paint on a visible surface.
Three Routes and What Each One Holds
Putty and swappable caps: Redgrass RGG360 V2
The RGG360 V2 is the clearest rotation-first option. The maker describes 360° rotation, swappable caps, and a magnetic base that docks onto a plate for table stability. Models attach with mounting putty rather than clamps. Each handle ships with one swappable cap, 15 g of mounting putty, and a docking plate; extra caps are sold separately.
Rotation is not clamping: it changes the angle of a model you have already secured, and adds no grip to a base that was never attached properly. A magnetic handle base is also not a magnetised miniature: here the magnet holds the handle on its docking plate, while a magnet in the model's base meeting a steel surface is a separate decision. Current US price was not verified for this comparison; check the seller and bundle.
Bands and printed parts: the Garfy V2 DIY design
FauxHammer's review of the Garfy design (published 2018, updated 2022) reports that it holds 25 mm, 32 mm, 40 mm, and 50 mm bases plus straight-sided wine corks. Version 2.0 is held together by elastic bands, which replaced the earlier screws and nuts and made swapping faster.
Those figures are one reviewer's report on one printed design, not a manufacturer's guarantee. Printing still consumes filament and printer time, bands and hardware add up, and a commissioned print has its own price — so the design is not free in practice. Check the review for current files and details rather than copying settings.
Cork or temporary holder
The cork route costs almost nothing and suits small unbased parts. Glue the part to a sacrificial tab, then mount the tab on a straight-sided wine cork. The trade-off is stability: a narrow cork lets a tall or off-centre piece tip while you turn it. Work over a tray, keep your hand low, and move to a supported holder for anything heavy.
Route | How the model is held | Rotation | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Redgrass RGG360 V2 | Mounting putty on a swappable cap | 360° rotation; extra caps sold separately | Based models from 10–50 mm; batch work with extra caps | Stated range is not a weight rating; extra caps cost more. Current US price was not verified for this comparison; check the seller and bundle |
Garfy V2 DIY design | Elastic bands pressing on the base | Turn the whole holder by hand; no separate rotating cap is established by this review | 25–50 mm bases and straight-sided corks, if you can print | Needs printer access, filament, and hardware; one reviewer's reported fit, not a manufacturer spec |
Cork or temporary holder | Glue or tab on a sacrificial mount | Reposition by hand | Small unbased subassemblies | Narrow footprint; tips easily; not for heavy or off-centre models |
Fit and Hold Checks Before You Paint
Run the same checks whatever route you choose:
- Dry-fit the base. Seat the model without putty or bands and look for wobble, gaps, or contact at one edge only.
- Attach the model properly. Once placement looks right, secure the base with the putty, bands, or clamp your chosen holder uses, and let the attachment settle before handling.
- Do a gentle hold check over a tray. With the model attached, turn the handle slowly and tilt it slightly over a soft surface. Never tilt a model that is not yet secured. If the model shifts, re-seat it or add support before painting.
- Test weight and balance. Heavy, large, or off-centre models need appropriate work support — a third contact point, a block, or a clamp-style holder. A 50 mm base inside a stated range does not mean every 50 mm model is safe.
- Check the batch workflow. Removable caps or elastic bands decide how many handles you need and how quickly you can swap models.
Choosing Between the Routes
Match the route to your constraints. Want rotation with a tidy batch workflow, and models on bases from 10 mm to 50 mm? Choose putty and caps. Have a printer, enjoy tinkering, and need to hold bases up to 50 mm plus corks? The DIY design is the economical route. Painting small subassemblies? Start with a cork and a sacrificial tab, and move up when the piece outgrows it.
Before buying, verify included parts, cap count, and current pricing, because bundles and retailer prices change. It is also worth taking stock of the miniature painting supplies already on your bench: putty, spare bases, and corks can change which route is the cheapest.
